Friday, September 28, 2007

The Kolsch Empire

My backpacking journey ended on the 10th of Septmeber in Cologne, Germany. Brandy and I spent four days, two of which were spent at the best hostel EVER, Meininger Hostel. Our reason for stopping in Cologne was to explore some Kolsch history. The German spelling for Cologne is Koln. Our roommate from Hamburg, Germany explained to us that Kolners add the letters SCH to words to identify it as being from Koln. "They do it to everything! It's so annoying," she expressed. Hence, Koln + SCH = Kolsch, meaning "from Koln." Next to the Dom (Cathedral outside central station), most important to Koln culture is their Kolsch beer. So I pretty much told everyone we met that I am a Kolsch. Bless Brandy's heart. She must have been so sick of hearing me boast about my heritage. I thought I'd get some free beer, but it never happened. Surprisingly I only indulged in one beer in those four days in Cologne and I had it mixed with Coke. Very unusual to me, but a popular way to serve beer in Europe. I brought a nasty cold with me from Paris which eliminated most of my alcohol desires. We even spent our third day in bed. So it was Kelley the sick Kolsch and Brandy the pregnant lady. We needed the rest, though before beginning our time at L'abri. I was able to accomplish my dual mission while in Cologne: see the beautiful cathedral and find some Kolsch paraphernalia. I would love to return in good health to have a tour of one of the Kolsch breweries and learn more about the Kolsch way.

Sunday, September 9, 2007

Paris


We weren´t sure we´d make it Paris, since it wasn´t on our "top cities to vist" list. Logistically the stop made sense since we were just in Taize, which is 1.5 hours south of Paris. Unfortunately most of the people we met along away told stories of their disapointment with Paris, but we learned after some time that people are idiots and are poor critics. So with little expectation we caught a train to Paris, with no hostel reservation. Though a kind Indian brother at Taize was aware that the pregnant girl and her friend did not have a reservation for their next destination, so he was kind enough to print some listings in Paris for cheap hostels. Fortuanately the first hostel on the list worked out. We had yet another pleasant Aussie roommate and a sweet young Brazilian boy to share our cozy room. My primary goal was to fall in love with Paris. So many people I know seem to do it, so why can´t I? In order to execute this mission we participated in a free walking tour (the same company that gives free tours in Berlin and the very reason we love Berlin so much). The four hour history lesson took us through some monumental sites in Paris like the Notre Dame, the Louvre, and the Eiffel Tower. Though we didn´t really explore any of the sites we were taken to, the brief historical background given by our Mexican-American tour guide allowed us to determine whether the site was worth returning to on our own time. With only one full day in Paris, returning to the sites we were further interested in was not an option. Though I enjoyed our brief time Paris, I did not have a romantic fling with the city as I hoped I would. But I do desire to return in the future for at least a week with a sugar daddy in order to afford the pricey restaurants, lavish boutiques, and an accomodation without mold and multiple foul stinches of smoke and dirt (I received an unpleasant cold while in Paris... still hacking away).

A-a-a-a-lle-lu-i-a


Not even a fully booked train could prevent the three of us from tackling this destination. Summer train fills quickly, so when we were told we couldn´t catch the train to get us to Taizé, which would´ve left us stranded in some wierd French train station overnight, we jumped on it anyhow. Luckily a dining cart onboard gave us a place to hide. So, we just blended in with all of the other passengers who were dining hoping a train attendant wouldn´t find us reservation-less and tag the 50 euro/person penalty. The whole task was actually like taking candy from a baby, though we don´t plan to hop any other trains in the near future.

Let me briefly introduce Taizé as printed in their welcome packet:

Coming to Taizé is an opportunity to seek communion with God through common prayer, singing, personal reflection and sharing. Everyone is here to discover or rediscover a meaning for their life and to find a new vitality. Being in Taizé is also a preparation for taking on reponsibilites at home with a view to being bearers of peace and trust. As you arrive at Taizé, you are welcomed by a community of brothers who have made a lifelong commitment to follow Christ in common life and celibacy, in simplicity of life.

Though some aspects of our time in Taizé felt like a kid´s summer camp, there is a great effort on behalf of the brothers and sisters in residence to encourage families who visit to spend much time together in prayer, studying scripture, playing, preparing meals and cleaning. I would love to return someday with my family. The entire time with the community is a true test of patience, selflessness and gratitude. Luxuries are non-existent, food is served scarcely as army rations would be and work is expected. My favorite times (other than mealtimes) were prayer times. The day begins with morning prayer, midday prayer at 12:20 and evening prayer at 8:30. The church can occupy up to 5,000 worshipers. Not sure how they can fit that many, as the 1,200 present were crammed in. Most sit on the floor or on a wooden kneeler carved and sold by one of the brothers and there are also some benches often occupied by the elderly, the pregnant or crippled. Chanting begins as numbers on a screen light up to indicate which number in the chantbook to follow.

TAIZÉChants are primarily sung in Latin, French, German, English, Spanish, Italian, Russian and Chinese, as the brothers are from all over the world. Throughout the entire service prayers, scriptures and chants are individually recited by brothers in their native language. Beautiful a capella harmonies fill the dimly candlelit room with orange banners stretching from the altar to the highly vaulted cielings. A heavenly experience. The majority of those visiting Taizé while we were there were mostly families and large groups of European Catholics from age 0 to 100, but we made friends from China, Alabama, Indonesia and Guatemala, Protestant and Non. And even the founder of Taizé, Brother Roger, was Protestant. In 2005 he was stabbed by a crazy Rumanian during a prayer service. I can´t imagine being in the building when the event occurred. Once visitors arrive they are asked to make a donation according to whichever region they are from. Those visiting from the States are asked to give between 5,50 and 7,50 euro. Brandy and I didn´t follow the conventional schedule each day, we just participated as we desired as this point in our trip we were very tired and Baby now 7 months. The one day of our four at Taizé that we did help out with work we were asked to welcome the new families arriving from Spain, since we were the only willing guests who knew Spanish. It was definitely a struggle, but we were able to deliver the info the families needed. As well, practice our Spanish. Another day we spent in the prayer, reflection and meditation garden. It´s a huge grassy area on a hill with trees and trails that lead to a small lake, a waterfall and prayer chapel at the foot. Another memorable part of Taizé is the Exposition where brothers make their living by selling handmade ceramics, jewelry, prayer kneelers, paintings, drawings and other art. So, where I saved money on my accomodation, I made up for in the Expo, but the beautiful souveniers will be a great reminder of Taizé. I will also remember the Oyak, the cafe where everything, including beer and wine, are sold at a minimal price. I felt like I was at the Our Savior Fair beer tent, except no Bingo and my bottle of beer was .60 euro cents. God bless the European Christians.

Barcelona (pronounced Barthelona)

When I remember Barcelona I picture a large city, busy yet clean, with big trees scattered throughout the sidewalks. Much like Boston, Brandy says. Though I´ve never seen Boston, I imagine I'd agree with Brandy. I admire the city and I am fascinated by the culture. It was a pleasure to simply roam the streets and observe the Spanish living their lives. I would love to return to Barcelona and when I do I will check out more of Antonio Gaudi´s crazy architecture. We observed some of his works from the street and I think we concluded where the adjective "gaudy" may have stemmed from. Just check out this picture of his Casa Batllo and you may agree.

Our hostel was wonderfully located in a very central, busy and charming area of Barcelona. This mega hostel was great but because of it´s size and number of guests, everything is portioned for the guests-the shower (1 minute at every push of the button), the AC (turns off automatically in the middle of the day), the light in the toilet room (shuts off after 5 minutes), and even the stove (off in 15 minutes). The hostel does offer paid tours for the guests though. One night Brandy and I signed up for the "Tapas & Flamenco Show Night." In actuality, it turned out to be a couple pieces of toast, a 20 minute performance (which was great) followed by a night of bar hopping. The hostel advertises for some local bars and in return they each offer a free shot of something awful like peach schnaps to hostel guests who are brought there on tours. After Brandy drank all of our free shots :) we retired for the evening. A great night, though an unexpected shot of Spanish nightlife.

The next afternoon we set foot for two things: 1. T-mobile, to inquire about a new phone for me and 2. a Mexican burrito with sour cream, one of Brandy´s cravings. Spain is not like the States where a Mexican restuarant can be found on every other block. When we got to the cell phone store it was closed, so we walked to kill some time and what did we stumble upon? A Mexican restaurant! Not the true Mexican portions we are used to, but it was just what the Doctor ordered. We even got festive and decided to wear a costume.

Brandy and I were especially looking forward to our time in Barcelona so we could use our Spanish-speaking abilities. And that we did- though Catalan, similar to Spanish but extremely different, is spoken in Barcelona. So they could understand us, but we couldn´t understand them. They also speak with a terrible lisp, which we refused to take seriously.